Draft Your Own Trouser Pattern 4


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Sewing Bee Fabrics Tutorial
Sew Your Own Trousers

 

Draft your own trouser pattern

I think trousers can look intimidating for a beginner to sew, but this way of sewing them is so easy. All you need is a pair of trousers around the same size you want them to be and in no time you will have drafted your own trouser pattern. Just keep in mind that stretchy trousers will be smaller than those in materials with no stretch, so pick your pair to copy with a similar amount of stretch to your fabric, or make allowances as you draw by adding or taking away a bit extra. 

What You Will Need:

Fabric! You can use all sorts here but my favourites to use are Cotton or Flannel or Jersey - the length you need will depend on the size you are making, the fabric width and whether you are pattern matching your pieces (e.g. making sure that lines on stripes line up).

Thread

Elastic - enough to comfortably fit around the waist. I would use about anywhere between 2-4cm wide.

How To Make It:

First, lay your trousers you want to copy out flat. You will want them folded along the side seam of 1 of the legs. Make sure to pull out the fabric around the crotch. Don't forget to add a seam allowance to the crotch side but not the straight side. Add extra at the bottom for the hem and enough at the top for your elastic to comfortably sit on with a cm or 2 extra.

how to draft a trouser pattern onto paper
Make your trouser pattern by flatterning a pair at the side seam and drawing onto paper.

Draw around it, then flip it over to draw around the other side of the same leg. Line it up so that the side seam is between the 2 pieces if you want to save some sewing and make your trousers out of only 2 pieces of fabric. 

lay out front and back pattern pieces on fabric
lay out front and back pattern pieces on the fabric and cut as one

You can hem your trouser legs at the end if you prefer to get an exact length after trying them on, but it's easier to sew them now; especially if you are sewing up toddler sizes or smaller as they are often difficult to get the leg hole opening around the free arm of the sewing machine.

sew the hem at the base of the trouser leg
sew the hem at the base of the trouser leg

Fold your 2 trouser pattern pieces in half along the straight line between the 2 paper pieces you lay down together. Sew your seam from the bottom of the trouser and up to the crotch, leaving the top open, and the 2 pieces separate.

arrange both legs of your trouser pattern then sew the legs up to the crotch
arrange both legs of your trouser pattern then sew the legs up to the crotch

Take the front piece of each and start pinning them together towards the back to form the crotch.

join trouser pattern at the crotch from front to back
join trouser pattern at the crotch from front to back

Begin to sew your crotch seam together by sewing your 2 trouser pattern pieces  together from front to back. When you hit your seam cross road where the legs join the body, simply move the pieces out of the way to make sure you don't sew over them.

join trouser pattern at the crotch from front to back
Start sewing up your seam from the front of the trousers pattern to the back
Be careful to move the trouser legs out of the way as you sew when you get the centre of your crotch on your trouser pattern.
Be careful to move the trouser legs out of the way as you sew when you get the centre of your crotch on your trouser pattern.

Fold the top of your trousers down , with the raw edge tucked under by at least 1/2cm to create a casing for your elastic. Make sure your elastic will fit the space comfortably. Depending on your preference, you can do this on the inside or outside of your trousers. I prefer the outside then it creates more of a band appearance. The next bit is much easier if you press it in place with an iron.

Sew it down all the way around along the edge where you tucked your raw edge under leaving a gap of 5-10 cm (an inch or 2)

Fold the top of your trousers down, tucking the raw edge under by at least 1/2cm. Check this is enough for the elastic to pass through before stitching down.
Fold the top of your trousers down, tucking the raw edge under by at least 1/2cm. Check this is enough for the elastic to pass through before stitching down.

Attach a bodkin or large safety pin to one end of the elastic and thread it through the casing you have just made. Making sure it hasn't twisted inside, once you have both ends, sew them together. Let it move up inside the casing fully then sew closed the hole in the trouser waistband you had left open to pass it through.

Using a large safety pin or bodkin, thread your elastic through the casing
Using a large safety pin or bodkin, thread your elastic through the casing
keep a hold of one end of elastic as you pull the other through the trouser waistband then sew the ends together
keep a hold of one end of elastic as you pull the other through the trouser waistband then sew the ends together

Then your trouser pattern has become a fabulous pair of new trousers. I really shouldn't have left it a month before taking the "finished" photos though as he has had a big growth spurt and now they are starting to look a bit on the short side as well as him not wanting to wait for me to iron them before putting them on!

Finished trouser pattern - front view
Finished trouser pattern - front view
Finished trouser pattern - side view
Finished trouser pattern - side view
Finished trouser pattern - back view
Finished trouser pattern - back view
Free trouser sewing tutorial brought to you by Linda at Sewing Bee Fabrics
Free trouser sewing tutorial brought to you by Linda at Sewing Bee Fabrics

We hope you enjoy our tutorials and love hearing what you think so please leave us a comment or send me an email to [email protected]

Happy Sewing!

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