Sewing Bee Fabrics Tutorial
How To Sew Your Own Reversible Waistcoat
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14/02/16
I wanted to make a waistcoat that was simple, would work for any size, and would have the "wow factor" for a wedding. So, that's why I came up with the idea to sew a simple reversible waistcoat, so there could be a formal side for the ceremony and a fun side for the evening do... plus it was easy to make matching daddy and son versions as no bought pattern was needed. Here's how I made them.
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What You Will Need:
Cotton - length will depend on the size you are making, fabric width and whether you are pattern matching your pieces.
Buttons (I used self cover buttons to match)
A shirt in the size you want your waistcoat to roughly be
How To Make It:
First, lay your shirt out. trace around the back section and 1 front section, ignoring the collar and sleeve. I tend to use wrapping paper to draw around (then I can use masking tape to join the pieces together to check I have things where I want them).
From the pieces you have drawn around, you want the back piece to stop higher than a shirt, so measure from the base of the neck to the length you want - probably just passed the trouser waistband, and trim your paper accordingly. At the front, waistcoats I think look best with the more traditional pointed shape at the bottom, so start the same length as your shortened back piece then curve down into a point then diagonally up to the centre line. Change the neck line into a V shape then add a seam allowance all the way around (I added 1/4 inch).
Then that's your pattern ready.
Cut out 2 front pieces and 1 back piece in 2 different fabrics. For my children's waistcoat I left it at that, but for my adult waistcoat I added an extra layer of cotton in the centre so that it had a bit more body but was stiff soft and breathable. You may want to add interfacing if you'd prefer a stiffer centre, or interfacing just to the buttonhole area to reinforce it there and help the button holes look sharp and keep their shape.
To start off, I first attached the shoulder pieces of the front and back pattern pieces. However, if you prefer,you can skip this step, and hand sew the shoulder seams instead Of turning under the arm holes.Â
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This made 2 little raw edged waistcoats. If you are adding an extra layer, just attach it to the back of one of your fabrics. You may want to stitch them together first to stop the pieces moving around so they sew as if they are a single piece of fabric. Since it's reversible, it doesn't matter which fabric you add it to the back of.
Next, I joined the 2 waistcoat pieces together. I placed them right sides together and pinned the edges. I sewed all the way around except the arm holes and a small gap at the bottom at the back for turning it right side out again.Â
I then turned the waistcoat right side out through the bottom hole then top stitched all the way around the edges that I had just joined.
I tucked the raw edges under for the arm holes, held it in place with lots of pins then top stitched around. I started and finished at the armpit so that any slight alignment issues would be hidden under there.Â
If you prefer to do the shoulder seams last instead, then now would be the time to join them.
Lastly was the buttons. When doing buttons I prefer to put in the button holes first then sew the buttons after as I find it easier to adjust the positioning if I haven't quite got the spacing as equal as I thought. I added buttonholes as normal on one side of the waistcoat.
I wanted my buttons to blend in so I used self cover buttons and matched the material to cover them with. For the toddler waistcoat I only did 1 set of buttons because I didn't want to add unnecessary bulk or confuse the poor lad as to why he can only do up half his buttons at any time, but for the adult version I made buttons in both fabrics. I sewed them back to back on both sides of the waistcoat. That meant that whichever way around it was worn, there would be 1 functional set of buttons and 1 set of buttons hidden on the inside.
Once the buttons are on, your DIY waistcoat is ready to go! I bet you didn't think it would be as easy as that to sew a reversible waistcoat.
We hope you enjoy our tutorials and love hearing what you think so please leave us a comment.
Happy Sewing!
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Hi Linda,
Going to give this a try today. A novice at sewing clothing, I am a quilter. Should the bottom hit the belt or below? Thank you
A waistcoat normally ends just below the belt. I hope you enjoy having a go!
lovely, clear, simple, and easy-to-use instructions, thanks so much! Loved the fabric choice, and seeing the finished garments and so beautifully modelled!
Thank you so much! That’s so kind of you! Linda x
This is a great explanation. Nice vest work. And what a cute little boy.
Thank you so much!
Thank you for posting. Will give it a go.
Hi there,
A great write up. I am new to sewing and making waistcoats. A video would have helped a lot. However, this post was done some years ago so will just have to ask for some pointers.
Just wanted some clarity: when you say a shirt, you mean a t-shirt or buttoned shirt or either?
“1 front section, ignoring the collar and sleeve”, how do you trace that? By placing a tracing paper on top of the shirt?
Sorry if the answer is already there, I’m in the process of learning..:-)
Hi, yes I meant a formal shirt. I personally just use a bit of wrapping paper, then lay the shirt on top with the sleeves inside out inside the shirt so they are out of the way and it is easier to follow the armhole line. Hope that helps!
Thanks for this, made one for hubby last night and he is really pleased with it. Couldn’t believe how easy it was!
I’m so pleased it came out well!
I’m so pleased to hear that!
Made this for my bear
What a fantastic idea! I hope he’s looking very dapper!
hi Linda and thank you for the waistcoat tutorial….you have clarified the ‘when to sew the shoulder seams or armhole edges first’ issue for me. i am an experienced sewer but never having sewn waistcoats before for some reason the above issue i just could not get my head around.
thanks once again…i will be back
Cheers
Jacqueline x
Hi Jacqueline. I’m so pleased you found it helpful. Since I made this I happened upon this fab way of doing arm holes. It takes a moment to get your head around how to convert it to an open front but well worth giving it a try if you are making anything similar – https://bellasunshinedesigns.com/sew-lined-sleeveless-garment-using-burrito-method
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Thank you
Loved this and just made one for my son in law, granddaughter and grandson.
Thank you so much. I’m so pleased they worked out well for you!
Great tutorial, I will definitely have to try this for hubby’s birthday in May.
Thank you so much Laurie. I’m sure it’ll make a fab present. I’d love to see how it comes out 😀
Hi! This looks great and straightforward – Would you mind sharing how much fabric you ended up using for this pattern?
Hi Kate,
My husband is around xl size and needed approx. 120cm x 65cm in both lining fabric and outer fabric. My son was about 2 1/2 – tall and slim and needed approx. 75cm x 35cm in each fabric for his. Hope that helps! I’d love to see if you have a go at making a waistcoat too.
Very cute Linda! They look so lovely all dressed up 🙂
Thank you Nina. Toddlers look so cute all dressed up in formal wear don’t they!