Kitty Phone Bag Free Sewing PDF Pattern & Tutorial


Why make a boring bag when you can make one that’s fun?!? This little bag has been designed for comfortably carrying a mobile phone. It has a KAM snap closure so there’s no velcro to snag on clothing or magnets to damage mobile phone parts. I’ve also made it with a layer of padding to happily cushion the screen against any minor bumps.

Whether you prefer to sew along with me with the video, or follow the step by step instructions on how to sew this handy little bag, I hope you’ll have fun creating your own fun kitty bag.

What You’ll Need:

  • A skinny quarter of cotton with a little bit of extra in contrasting cotton scraps for the flap and paws/tail.
  • Stiff interfacing
  • Thread
  • Heat & Bond or other temporary fabric adhesive.
  • Optional – fleece scraps or similar for a cushioned lining

Download The Free PDF Sewing Pattern Here:

download kitty phone bag free pdf sewing pattern

How To Make It:

1 kitty phone bag pattern pieces

Here are my pieces cut out. The skinny quarter of cotton has been used for my lining, strap and outside pieces.

The bag body and flap pieces have matching fleece scraps backed with interfacing. The ears have no fleece but do have interfacing.

Bag body pieces, the bag flap and ears have a seam allowance added all the way around.

All of the decorative parts to go on top have been backed with heat and bond. The paws and tail have a matching seam allowance added where they meet the edges, and so do the kitty hair and inner ear parts. The paw prints don’t touch any edges so no seam allowance is needed.

I started out by joining the top pieces of cotton for the bag to the fleece layer with the interfacing on the back. I am using a free-motion darning foot so I can move in any direction and draw swirls with my thread, which I think suit the pattern I’m working with. Any type of stitch pattern works fine here. The aim is just to join the layers together, so if you’re more comfortable sewing straight lines then go for it! I’m spreading my stitches out all over the fabric. The more stitch coverage there is, the less movement the layers will have so the stiffer it’ll be.

As it’s only small, I’ve popped a few clips around the edge to keep the fabric in position. That’ll hold it in place fine while I sew it all together.

2 quilting cotton and fleece layers together

If you don’t want to add a padded layer, you can leave out this section and just bond your interfacing directly to the back of your cotton instead. I’ve added the fleece layer to my because not only will it give the bag more structure, but it’ll add an extra bit of padding if my bag gets knocked or dropped with my phone inside… which I know will happen!

I’ve made sure that the pattern for the bag body is at least a couple of cm (or about an inch) bigger than my phone all the way around before adding the seam allowance. That makes for a nice snug fit, so you might want to print out the pattern and see how it compares to your phone if you plan on using the bag the same way. You can always resize down if you have a smaller phone, or size up if you have a big phone, or you just want a bit more room for your keys and other bits too.

3 remove the heat and bond and press in place with the iron

Next, I grabbed my paw and tail pieces. I have ironed the heat and bond to the cotton before cutting them out to make it much easier to cut. I then pulled off the papery backing and arranged the pieces where I wanted them to go. I’ve put down part of the bag flap fabric to make sure that I’ve spaced all my paws perfectly. That way, I know they’ll look good when the bag is closed.

I then pressed them in place with the iron to fix them to the bag pieces. If you don’t have heat and bond, then other non-tacky temporary fabric glues would work fine too.

Next, I just stitched them down in place around the edges of the fabric. It’s easier to do the little paw prints afterwards, once the bigger parts are securely in place. The heat and bond will stop the cotton edges from fraying, and the bag won’t be washed regularly, so I don’t need to worry about having to seal any of the raw edges in. A simple running stitch will work perfectly here.

Then I’m doing exactly the same with the tail. I’ve bonded the heat and bond in place with the iron, then I’m just sewing it down with a quick stitch around the edge again.

4 stitch down the edge of the paw and tail pieces

5 bond the paw pieces in place then stitch them down

After they were secured, I got those teeny tiny paw print pieces. Just like the bigger pieces, I used head and bond to secure them in place then stitched them down carefully. It’s a bit more tricky working around such dinky pieces, especially if you’re using a regular foot instead of a free motion foot, so just take your time and be careful not to catch them when you swivel your presser foot.

Feel free to add any other decorations to your kitty body at this point. Maybe you might want to appliqué a little bow on the end of the tail, or a little heart shape on its tummy or anything else you can think of! 

Although the bag flap is also made up of interfacing backed fleece and cotton, I haven’t quilted it like the bag pieces. This is because the layers will be held together well with the face stitching and a KAM snap closure. So instead, I have just sewn close to the edge of the fabric (inside the seam allowance so it wont be visible at the end).

I then ironed on the little kitty hair piece and I used a water-erasable marker to mark out where I wanted the face to be. 

6 stitch the front cotton to the fleece then bond top piece and mark expression
7 stitch down the top face piece and cat face to the bag flap

I’ve switched my thread out to a darker blue, and just like before, I have used my free motion foot to follow all around the outer edge of the darker fabric.

Then for the fun part – adding the face to the cat! I just followed the lines that I drew out with the fabric marker. I find it can be helpful to go forward and backwards a few times to make the lines a bit thicker and bolder. Or if you prefer, you could always hand embroider yours with a thicker thread. I’ve sewn sleepy little eyes and a mouth. I’m not sewing the nose because later on I’ll be adding a KAM snap closure and positioning it so that my kitty has a cute little round shiny nose.

Next, I took the back piece of cotton for the flap and placed it right-side-together with the front flap part. I stitched down the sides of the flap and back up in a U shape, leaving the top open where it will join to the main part of the bag later.

8 stitch front and back bag flap pieces together
9 clip and turn then top stitch around the bag flap

I clipped the corners close to the stitching. That’ll help the flap lie flat when I turn it back the right way out. Then I top-stitched around the edge to help it look nice and neat. It’ll help the fabric keep its shape more easily.

I used an overcast foot with my needle in the left stitch position and used the guide to help me stitch nice and close along the edge.

To sew the ear pieces for the kitty bag, I first attached the inner ear to the front ear part. I ironed it in place with heat and bond then stitched around the edge. It’s a bit trickier because they are so small so just take it slowly as you stitch, especially when you start out. If you want to make it easier for yourself, you could always sew your inner ear to a bigger piece of cotton and just trim it down to the right size after.

Next, I took the front and back ear pieces. I lined them up right sides together and just stitched my seam around the edges. I left the bit that was attached to the bag open. I snipped the corners then turned it back the right way and pressed it flat with the iron. Then I top-stitched the edges so they’ll hold their shape and stand up more easily.

10 bond the inner ears stitch in place then fix front of ears to back
11 Fold edges of straps inwards and press in place. Then fold in half and press again

Then it was time to sew the strap. Bag handles can be nice and easy when you know how. I attached my stiff interfacing right down the centre of the long cotton strip. Next, I ironed the edges inwards on both sides of the interfacing. So now the raw edges are in the middle.

Then I folded the strip in half and pressed it in place with the iron. That sandwiches those raw edges right into the centre – now there is also a double layer of stiff interfacing, so that’ll be nice and stable. No annoying twisted and squished-looking bag strap is going to happen here! If your fabric is a bit slippy, you might want to pin or clip it in position ready to sew.

I prefer to stitch closed the open side first when I’m sewing bag handles. I find that by lining up this edge first as I sew, I tend to get a neater finish. This way I match the edges perfectly as I sew. Then when I come to stitch down the other side, everything is already held in the perfect position so I can sew quickly to just secure it in place.

I left the ends open and scruffy. There’s no need to do anything special there because they’ll be hidden inside the bag.

12 top stitch down both sides of the bag strap
13 stitch outer bag pieces together

Next up, I stitched together the outer pieces of the main bag body. With the pieces facing them right sides together, I stiched all the way down the long side, across the bottom and back up in a U shape, leaving the top open.

I stitched the lining pieces after. Although they were right sides together just like the outer pieces of the bag, they need sewing slightly differently.

I stitched down the long side to the bottom corner, but I stopped there. 

I left the entire bottom open because I’ll be turning the fabric through that hole. This is a stiff little bag, so a little gap just won’t work. So to make it easy to turn, I made it like an open-ended tube by only sewing back up the other long side.

14 Stitch the lining together leaving the bottom open
15 attach the ears and strap

Now I just needed to put everything together! I fixed my ears and handles to the top of the flap part of the bag first. I did this by placing them right sides together, ears first, then straps on top.

This stitching is just to hold them in position so they can’t slip as I fix them to the bag so I stitched nearer to the edge of the fabric than my regular seam allowance. This means that when I sew my seam, those stitches will be hidden inside plus the extra stitching for the strap will help reinforce it a bit.

To put it all together, I kept my outer bag layer still inside out. My flap closure needs to go right side together with the back of the bag. I tucked the handle deep inside to make sure it couldn’t easily get caught up in my stitching.

I turned the lining the right way around. This means that when I put it inside, it’ll be right-side-together with the outer layer. I need the side seams to line up, so I make sure of that before clipping it to help hold them in place.

I stitched around the top edge right the way around with a normal seam allowance. Because there are quite a few layers to get through, I used a thick fabric foot to be able to move over it easily. If you want to know more about this foot and sewing with thick fabric, then you might want to take a peek at our tutorial on sewing thick fabric.

16 line up the bag flap and the lining then stitch all the way around the top
17 turn the bag through the hole in the lining then tuck the ends under before sewing closed

Now, do you remember that hole I left earlier in the bottom of the lining? I pulled the whole lot through that hole to turn it back the right way around.

It took a bit of easing through. It’s easier to start by bringing the handle out first. Then gently pulling and wiggling until everything is pulled through with it. I left my lining sticking out and tucked the raw ends of the hole I just turned it through underneath on itself, then stitched it closed by sewing all along the bottom close to the edge.

Once that was done, I tucked the lining inside the bag then moved onto the final part – adding the KAM snap closure. I wanted the circle part of the snap to be my kitty nose, so I checked where I wanted it to go before making a hole with an awl where I needed the prong of the snap to go through. Most people use KAM pliers to fix them together, but I prefer using my press.

Once that side was secured, I closed the flap to see where the snap would line up best. This way, I know the best position to put it so that the front of the bag will lay flat. Once the other snap was in, it was done!

18 attach KAM snap fixture for nose

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