Sew A Sunflower Peg Bag – Free Sewing Pattern


The sun is out and the laundry is ready to hang on the line, but no washing line is complete without a cute peg bag to brighten up washing day! This might not be the quickest and easiest of washing bag patterns out there, but it is fun, quirky and brightens up my day, so I think it’s well worth the effort.

If you’d like to have a go at sewing along with me, then you can either follow along with the video or scroll on down for plenty of pictures and written step by step instructions if you’d prefer. You can download the Free PDF Sewing Pattern in the link just below the video.

Print out your Free PDF Peg Bag Pattern to sew along:

Download your free peg bag sewing pdf pattern here

Download The Free Sunflower Peg Bag Pattern

To make this project, I used:

  • Cotton fabric or similar
  • A wire coat hanger
  • Stiff iron-on interfacing
  • 16mm wide velcro
  • Snaps or poppers
  • A zipper foot

How To Sew This Sunflower Peg Bag:

How to make a peg bag with a coathanger that is approximately 24cm across


I started out by reshaping a wire coat hanger into a circle by using a mixing bowl to bend it around. My coat hanger was about 24cm across once it was round. If your coat hanger is a bit bigger or a bit smaller, you can scale your pattern up or down to fit it.

1b Cut out stiff interfacing for the sunflower peg bag 1

By cutting out my stiff interfacing first, it makes it quicker and easier to cut the fabric. There should be fourteen pieces of interfacing for the petals. These are cut to the exact size in the pattern. There are 4 small strips, 2 long strips and 2 main bag body pieces.

2 Iron On interfacing then cut out the cotton free sewing pattern 2

I ironed the interfacing onto my cotton for the petals and the main body pieces. I added a seam allowance, ignored the V cut out on the petals, then cut the fabric out on the fold. So, I now have double the amount of petal and main pieces. Half with interfacing and half without.

I cut the fabric strips not on the fold as the interfacing pieces are different to the non-interfaced pieces. All require you to add your preferred seam allowance to every side.

3 sew the petal pieces together 1

I started out by making the petals first. Each petal was made by pairing one piece with interfacing and one without. Facing them so the fabric is right sides together (interfacing is on the outside). I left the base open and stitched all around the curved edges on the outside. At the pointed part of the petal, I stopped with the needle down, lifted the presser foot, swivelled the fabric, and then started to sew again.

Rather than sewing a petal at a time, I chain stitched them. This means I’m stitched them without cutting the threads between them until the end. To do this, once you get to the end of a petal, lifting the presser foot with the needle up, slide the finished petal backwards until it is just out of the way. Line up the next petal pieces under the foot then lower the presser foot back down again. On my machine it helps to manually lower the needle, otherwise it can sometimes pull the fabric out of position. You can then carry on sewing.

4 clip the edges and snip off the top before turning the petal the right way out 1

After stitching all fourteen petals, I made small snips along the curved edges to ensure the seam lies flat when turned. Cutting off the tip creates a sharper point.

I used forceps to help turn them by grabbing the inside end and gently pull the fabric out. I then use the tip of the forceps to pushing the end of the petal gently into a sharp point.

5 top stitch around the edges of the petals 1

Pressing them flat helps to get them in the perfect position for topstitching. I stitched around the curved edges, leaving the bottom open. If you wanted to put your own unique spin on your peg bag, you could use different patterned fabric scraps for each petal, top stitch them with decorative stitches or add ribbons or lace. Just be careful not to embellish them with anything that adds too much weight or they won’t be able to stand up easily.

6 shape the flower by pinching the central fabric without inferfacing into a pleat then stitch in place 1

To give them a some shape and structure so that they look more sunflower-like and stand up better, I’ve folded each petal with the interface side facing upwards. I grabbed the fabric in between the V cutout on the interfacing. I pulled it towards the back of the petal then folded it off to the side to create a pleat. I then stitched this pleat in place, making sure to fold each petal in the same direction.

They should look like a nice 3d shape. But if yours look a little floppier, you could use spray-on starch to stiffen them up.

7 Attach the petals right sides together to the interface lined strips leaving seam allowances at the ends 1

I took half of my interface-lined strips and then attached the petals. For the smaller two strips, I attached two petals on each, and 10 petals on the larger strip. I clipped them in place with the right sides of the fabric facing together, leaving a seam allowance at either end of each strip. Before stitching in place I double-checked they were all facing the same direction.

I used a narrow seam allowance to stitch the petals down. This line of stitching holds the petals in the right place when we come to sew the next step, so by keeping the stitches inside the normal seam allowance, they’ll be hidden inside later on, giving a neater finish.

8 sandwich the petals between strips by stitching the matching interface lined strip to the other side 1

With the interface lined strips we put to the side before, I took them next to sandwich the petals in the middle of those strips. I lined them up right sides together with the other strip that I already attached the petals to. This time I used a normal seam allowance. Now that previous stitch line to secure the petals in place has been hidden on the raw edge side of the seam.

9 Attach loop velcro pieces to the unlined cotton strips 1

Next, I attached Velcro to the strips without interfacing. I used a total of eleven pieces of 16mm wide Velcro, each piece cut about 2cm long. Using the soft loop side only, I spaced 5 pieces along the long strip and 3 for each short strip, then stitched them down in place.

Sew the short strips together for the handle straps of the sunflower peg bag

With the shorter strips, I want to stitch them neatly like half a bag handle each. I can’t make it fully inside out, and turn it like I normally would for a strap because the petals are too big. So I got around this sewing half of the strip inside out first, then tucking the other side under and securing with top stitching. To make that easier, I pressed the seam allowances on the side I’m not stitching on both pieces. I then stitched down 1 long side and 1 short side, making sure that the short side was on opposite ends on my 2 pieces. This way the petals will face the same direction when I add them on later.

11 Clip the corner turn right way out then stitch closed the folded edge and top stitch the rest of the way 1

I clipped the corners and turned the fabric right side out. I then tucked the pressed folded edge under, and topstitched it down. To hold the straps in position, I continued topstitching around the closed end and back up the other side.

12 Stitch closely either side of the petals using a zipper foot 1

To help the petal stand up tall, I added a line of stitches close to the petal edge on both sides of the strip. Using a zipper foot lets you sew closer to any raised edge (not just zippers!) so it meant I could stitch closer than I would have been able to do with a regular foot.

13 Sew the peg bag body lining pieces either side of the unlined long strip leaving a gap to turn through 1

After finishing the short strips, I moved on to the main body of the peg bag. The lining is easier to sew, so I stitched this first. I used the remaining pieces without interfacing – 2 main body pieces and the long strip with the velcro attached to it. Placing the strip between the two bigger pieces, I stitched down both sides of the strip to secure each side to the bag body pieces, leaving a hole for turning later on one side which was about 12cm wide (which is about four or five inches).

If you want to make your bag a bit more unique, you could add some inner pockets to your lining or if you’re gifting your peg bag, you might want to embroider a little message inside.

14 repeat with the outer peg bag pieces 1

I repeated the same thing with the outer pieces and the long strip of petals. It is a little trickier to sew this part because the petals are bulkier, making the fabric a little harder to manoeuvre. It helps to use plenty of clips to secure everything and make sure that the petals face the right way so they don’t accidentally get caught up in a seam. No hole is needed on the outer layer so I stitched all the way from one end to the other on both sides of that long petal strip.

how to line up the short pieces on your DIY peg bag sewing pattern

Before joining the peg bag outer part and the lining, I added those shorter handle-like pieces and stitched them into
position.

I lined the petals up with where I wanted them to go. I then turned the petals downwards to face downwards towards the bag and clipped them to the opposite side, on the central strip. The petals should be facing the same direction as the ones inside the bag. Just like earlier, I secured them with a narrow seam allowance to stop them moving around and these stitches will be hidden later.

16 turn the lining the right way out and place inside the outer peg bag fabric lining up the seams 1

I turned the lining so that the pretty side faces out. I haven’t cut the curves on the seams as it won’t affect the shape. I lined up the seams first and clipped them in place. By matching the seams first, it helps to make sure everything lines up properly. I’ve also double-checked that none of the petals are sticking upwards, so that they’re not likely to get caught up in my sewing.

17 stitch together the peg bag body and lining 1

I stitched them together around the top, using my normal seam allowance to hide the previous stitches.

If you find it’s a bit trickier to sew on your sewing machine, you can always change your sewing machine foot for a walking foot. Or, you might want to make it easier to manoeuvre your fabric by converting your sewing machine into free-arm sewing by removing the bottom section – like you would if you were sewing a hem for a trouser leg or sleeve.

18 Turn the peg bag through the lining hole then fold the hole edges under to sew the hole closed 1

I turned my peg bag the right side out by using the hole in the lining. Although the petals are a bit stiff and bulky, they can be gently eased through the opening. Afterwards I gave them a quick press so that they would stand back up straight again. I tucked the edges of the hole under and stitched it closed. It doesn’t need to be neat here are as it will be hidden under the pegs.

19 Add Kam snaps or similar closures either side of the short strips 1

I added 2 Kam snaps at the end of each of the straps. 2 male pieces on one side and 2 female pieces on the other side so that they can pop together in the middle around the coat hanger wire. If you don’t have a KAM snap press or pliers, you could always use some sew-on poppers instead.

20 press with an iron then top stitch around the peg bag top 1

To neaten it up, and help it hold its shape a bit better, I top stitched around the outer edge at the top of the peg bag, stopping either side of the petal sections to avoid them.

If you tend to wobble as you sew or you want your topstitching line to look more professional, you might want to try a sewing machine foot with an edge stitching guide to help you keep your fabric edge straight.

Now is also be the perfect time if you wanted to add any other creative finishing touches to your peg bag. For example you could stitch on a bee button or add an iron-on butterfly patch, trim the top with lace or something similar!

21 put the coathanger inside and add strips of hook velcro on top to sandwich it into position 1

Lastly, I put the coat hanger inside the peg bag. I popped the KAM snaps together on either side of the coat hanger hook to hold it in place at the top.

Using the hook pieces of Velcro that I put aside earlier, I sandwiched the coat hanger wire in between the hook and the loop velcro pieces to hold it in position. I chose this way of holding it in place because then it’s really easy to take the coathanger back out again if I want to give it a wash.

If you’ve made your peg bag and found that it’s slightly too small for your coat hanger, then don’t worry about it. Just grab a pair of pliers and add a couple more twists to the hook, and that will make your circle slightly smaller.

Now it’s finished – All you have left to do is grab your laundry and find your pegs!

How to make a DIY sunflower peg bag as a sewing gift with a free pdf pattern

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